If you need to leave your Two-wheelers for months or even years at a time, it’s quite alright to do that if you store it properly. A motorcycle can maintain optimal functionality depending on how it's stored.
If you plan to leave your bike unused for a considerable period without proper preparation and care, it can lead to several pesky issues with its different parts. In such cases, there’s a lot of consequences you may have to face including Seals and gaskets shrink and crack, Battery drains, Fuel “gels” up, Tires become brittle and create flat spots, Paint peels on the tank, Condensation builds up in carburetors and engine, rust, and many more other bigger possible ones to be concerned about.
Having said that, Storage preparation depends on storage length, there are very different strategies to follow. When in doubt, always “upgrade” to the next level. It is surprising how the length of time in storage changes the best methods used.
In addition to going over the basics of bike storage, I’ve included extra tips that will make the job more effective.
To start with, Here's a SIMPLE STORAGE OPTION-
Find someone (friend/brother/dad) to start the bike once in two weeks and take it around for a short drive. You can get a through service done whenever you are back in 6-12 months and use it for that period. This would ensure that the bike is in working condition.
The advantage you get here is that you can ride the bike, right away whenever you are back!
EXPERT OPTION-
If you have the Knowledge of assembly, Dismantle the bike, and keep all important parts in different cut out cans, dipped with oil, so that it does not rust. Spray WD40 anti-rust agent on the remaining portions of the bike to prevent rusting! This is a tension free option till you return back after 2-3years!
Whenever you are back, remove from oil, and assemble it back and ride it! This option is a bit of complication as Knowledge of assembly is required. You wont be able to ride it when you are back unless you assemble it properly! Provided you do all these work with the help of an expert mechanic.
FINALLY, Here are essential steps to take before you store a vehicle. They will preserve the life of the engine and ensure that your car starts when you finally go out and explore once again.
WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU LEAVE YOUR BIKE UNUSED FOR A LONG PERIOD?
These factors very much depends on how long the bike was left unused. We can divide these factors into three categories- namely:
a) 3 MONTHS PERIOD-
Probably nothing more than drained battery that needs charging to revive it. Tyres will need to be pumped too and fresh fuel is recommended.
b) 6–12 MONTHS PERIOD-
Dried/gummed fuel lines and/or pump,fuel injector/carb jets clogged with gummy residue, that make fuel flow difficult. Perhaps dust and cobwebs in the air filter and ducts too. You’d have to clean all of these, and get fresh fuel in addition to charging the battery (except for basic motorcycles that don’t require a battery to run the engine).
c) FEW YEARS OF DISUSE-
You’d have to clean all the fuel and air lines, pumps, hoses, carburettor/fuel injectors, possibly replace the rubber hoses , change the engine oil, coolant and brake fluids too. Replace the battery altogether. Inspect the wires for cracked insulation, etc.
POINTS WORTH CONSIDERING-
To start off with our list, we will take a look at three of the most basic prerequisites points worth considering:
If any vehicle is stored improperly, or for an extensively long duration it often refuses to start or dies often while running/idling.
This can be caused due to the following factors -
1) DEAD/DYING BATTERY-
A vehicle won't start using the self start mechanism if it has a dead battery.
If the battery cannot crank the engine but makes a “khrr” “khrr” sound like grinding of gears when you try to start the engine, it means that the battery is low on charge. You must charge it back to its specific power output.
If, even on recharging the battery the engine doesn't start or the problem persists, you will have to replace the battery for a new one!
2) ELECTRICAL MALFUNCTION-
This is one of the worst problems you could come across and one of the most expensive and troublesome one. It could re-occur if the problem isn't fixed properly.
To avoid this problem always store the vehicle properly in dry and clean place away from moisture.
Also check the terminal of the battery. The battery might be fine but the corroded terminal might cause the starting problem.
3) CLOGGED FUEL SUPPLY-
While the bike runs the dirt and sediments in the fuel tank keeps on getting stirred up. Once the bike is stored these settle down in the tank and block the fuel pipe. This causes blockage in the fuel pipe leading to the engine. Cleaning the tank and pipe should solve this problem.
Another important point is the supply medium of fuel.
In case of FI(fuel injected)engines if the fuel pump is clogged. This is the one problem where you should visit the service center.
In case of carbureted vehicles though cleaning the carburetor and changing the filter should work out.
If the bike starts but is unable to idle then revving the RPM's up to the red highlighted numbers,(NOT redline numbers), can do the trick. This should clear out any obstacles in fuel pipe and lubricate the engine inside from the sitting down engine oil.
If you cannot crank the engine through self start (and if the bike's kick start mechanism doesn't work)- Put the vehicle in second gear and push it until some speed is gained and press the clutch. This should jump start the vehicle effectively.
DIY- ESSENTIAL BIKE TIPS- BEFORE STARTING AN UNUSED BIKE( after 1 year)-
1) Do not try to start it or turn the crankshaft by any means, especially make sure pistons/rings are not stuck or fused to the cylinders.
2) Drain and replace all fluids (engine, brake and other oils, coolant, gas).
3) Replace oil, air and fuel filters.
4) Inspect all rubber/plastic components (tires, gaskets, bushings, belts, etc.) and replace everything that is grayed out, or cracked. Tires older than a couple of years should be replaced.
5) Clean/inspect the entire fuel system, starting with the tank, petcock and fuel/breathing hoses, ending with the carburetors or fuel injection jets.
6) Check, clean and reconnect all electrical connections/plugs. Do the same with lights while you are at it. Pay extra attention to the ignition system.
7) Battery will be almost certainly dead. Get a new one.
8) For chain driven bikes inspect the chain and replace with both sprockets if necessary. For shaft, re-lube or replace oil.
9) Make sure all controls, from switches to handlebar to brake levers, work as they should be.
10) Thoroughly inspect brakes. Replace brake pads, cables, hoses if necessary.
11) Make sure everything that needs to move is cleaned, lubed and works smoothly. Levers, switches, suspension, wheels, steering…
12) Replace spark plugs.
Once you’ve done all that, try to manually turn the crankshaft with spark plugs out and battery disconnected ( turn kick-starter by hand). If it turns smoothly (it will if it didn’t rust) keep turning it a few times while spraying some WD-40 spray or similar through the spark plug holes. If it doesn’t turn easily or at all, you’ll have to take the engine apart!
Please note- the engine will take some cranking to get it started, so be prepared to kick start a lot or re-charge the battery. I suggest running it with some cheap oil for a few dozen Km, then drain and replace it with good oil.
IMPORTANT NOTE TO CONSIDER-
When you are about to start the bike after a long period of time, Instead of button starting the bike, kick start it because in these days the battery has drained a lot and when button start is done it drains to the bottom. Run the bike for some distance so as it should charge itself sufficiently. Air pressure in the tires will decrease. Make sure you refill as soon as you resume using your bike to avoid damages to rim and spokes. Same goes with basic lubricants required (Oil/grease).
Take it for a test ride very carefully and pay attention to what it sounds and feels like. Imagine that anything can go wrong at any time until you are satisfied that everything works as it should.
CHECK LIST- ON WHAT TO DO IF YOU PLAN TO KEEP YOUR BIKE UNUSED FOR A YEAR-
Well, you really don't need to do that much to prepare your bike for storage for a year!
Follow these few simple things:
1) Give the bike a full service.
2) Change the oil and filter.
3) Fill the tank full with fresh fuel.Topping the tank off will prevent moisture from accumulating inside the fuel tank and keeps the seals from drying out. If possible, You should also purchase a fuel stabilizer to prevent ethanol buildup and protect the engine from gum, varnish and rust. The fuel stabilizer will prevent the gas from deteriorating for up to 12 months.
4) Run the bike for 10 minutes or so until warm- go for a short ride. This gets the fuel stabilizer through your bike's system.
5) Most importantly: Where do you keep your bike? The area should be cool, dry and dark for your bike to maintain its outer appearance. Sunlight fades away the color and humidity will encourage rust formation. Park the bike in a safe location - locked garage is best. Park the bike on double stand and away from the sun.
7) Remove the battery, place the battery on a piece of wood or your work bench and hook it up to a trickle charger.
8) Air up the tires to your normal riding pressures
9) Prop it up on bricks under the main stand or belly (in case of no main stand) or on paddock stands if you have them so that minimal weight falls on the tyres.
10) Put a motorcycle cover on the bike to protect it from dust. Invest in a good waterproof cover if you don’t have a good parking space or Cover it up with a cloth and tie the whole thing down so it doesn’t blow away with the wind or cover with anything that covers it fully.
Do not have anyone start and idle the bike while you are gone. Idling the bike does not warm up the entire engine/transmission and driveline. This causes acids to form inside the engine as well as water vapors, which will cause corrosion over time. Those acids and water vapor burn off when you ride the bike and heat the entire system up to operating temperatures. It is not necessary to run the engine at all for that short a period of storage.
If you were to store for longer than 2 years, then you would have to do more.
NOTE:
(1) Do not over inflate tires.
(2) Do not start and run for 5 minutes periodically, to “circulate the oil”. This generates a lot of moisture due to the functioning of the internal combustion process. If started running for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour. This will require redoing many of the preparation steps completed before putting in storage.
Please note this is a DIY preparation steps and a mechanic most of the time will easily be able to solve these problem and if you don't want to mess up, i recommend you going to a mechanic as he has the right set of tools for the job and he would do all these above steps systematically. Taking things in your own hand means you should know what you are doing or it might cost you even more money in case you make a mistake and break or damage any parts!
STAY HOME, STAY SAFE, SAVE LIVES....
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